Rooted In Legacy, Powered By Women

Two hundred years ago, the first vines were planted in New York’s Finger Lakes—a region that would slowly transform into one of America’s most intriguing wine frontiers. Known for its glacier-carved landscapes, cool-climate varietals, and deep agricultural roots, the Finger Lakes has long been defined by tradition. But as it celebrates two centuries of winemaking, a new chapter is being written—one led by a growing number of women who are reshaping the narrative from the vineyard to the cellar.

To explore this evolving story, I spoke with five women winemakers of the Finger Lakes to get their take on the wine culture and winemaking in the region. These winemakers aren’t just making wine—they’re challenging expectations, refining regional identity, and pushing the boundaries of what Finger Lakes wine can be. In these conversations, a clear picture emerges: one of resilience, innovation, and a profound respect for the land and its potential. Their voices reflect not only personal journeys but also a shared vision for a more inclusive and ambitious future.

As the Finger Lakes looks ahead to its next 200 years, these women are proving that honoring history doesn’t mean standing still. It means growing from it—and redefining what comes next.

Letting the Land Speak: Léana Godard and the Quiet Precision of Terroir

Léana Godard, head winemaker at Forge Cellars, believes that great wine begins with listening. Born in France and educated in Bordeaux, Godard took a meandering route to the Finger Lakes, including time under renowned Rhône winemaker Louis Barruol. It was there she internalized a philosophy that now defines her work: ego-less winemaking rooted in terroir.

“We are doing everything to do very little,” Godard says. At Forge, her approach is minimalist—no flashy techniques, no formulaic manipulation. The goal is clarity. “We treat every site the same because we want the land to speak.”

That clarity has yielded acclaim. Her 2018 Riesling Classique landed on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 list— an early triumph that underscored the Finger Lakes’ potential on a global scale. For Godard, the region’s ancient shale soils and glacial legacy aren’t just geological facts—they’re narrative tools. “If you are looking for dry wines with complexity, salinity, and texture, you are looking for Finger Lakes wine,” she says.

Looking forward, Godard sees the region as a white wine powerhouse—if it can stay focused. “We need to keep raising the quality bar. We need to speak the language of terroir and elevate the perception of what this region can do.”

Grace in the Grind: Lynne Fahy’s Humble Pursuit of Excellence

Lynne Fahy, winemaker at Hillick & Hobbs, exemplifies quiet excellence. A native of upstate New York, she left for Oregon and New Zealand before returning to pursue her passion for Riesling close to home. “There isn’t a single day I regret moving here,” she says. “The community is small but mighty.”

At Hillick & Hobbs, her work is marked by restraint and precision. She ferments on heavy lees, delays sulfur additions, and relies on native yeasts—choices that reveal rather than obscure vineyard character. “The goal is always to let the vineyard and vintage guide us.”

Yet Fahy doesn’t romanticize the work. “The Finger Lakes will humble you,” she articulates. From frost to disease pressure, nature throws constant curveballs. But that, she says, is the point. “You can’t control the vintage—you respond to it. That humility has made me a better winemaker.”

As climate change reshapes wine regions globally, Fahy sees opportunity, noting “The Northeast is increasingly seen as a climate haven.” But her ambitions are personal as much as professional: “I hope to be known for making quality wines and being a part of the community that made this region rise.”

Grit and Grace: Julia Hoyle’s Collaborative Vision for the Finger Lakes

Winemaker Julia Hoyle of Hosmer Winery and co-founder of Apollo’s Praise doesn’t see wine in isolation. For her, it’s about connection—to land, to people, to purpose.

“I feel most at ease with dirt under my fingernails,” she says. Her winemaking style is intuitive and empathetic, shaped by vintage variation and driven by a belief in balance. “Finger Lakes wines have acidity and structure, but they’re made for the table. They’re made to be shared.”

Hoyle’s 2023 season tested that ethos. A devastating frost wiped out half her vineyard’s crop just as she and Kelby Russell were preparing to expand Apollo’s Praise. What followed was a crash course in entrepreneurial resilience—licensing, distribution, and branding, all in a matter of months. “Through it all, we remembered to laugh,” she says. “That might be the most important lesson.”

Hoyle also leads the region’s longest-running winemaker tasting group and advocates for agritourism and economic development. Her definition of success is rooted in sustainability, not scale. “In a world where bigger often means better, I like to remind people that having ‘enough’ is usually better.”

For Hoyle, the Finger Lakes’ future isn’t about copying other regions—it’s about leaning into what makes it different. “We’re quirky, we’re collaborative, and we’re just getting started.”

No Rules, No Limits: Nova Cadamatre MW’s Boundary-Pushing Ambition

As the first female winemaker Master of Wine based in the U.S., Nova Cadamatre brings rare credentials to the Finger Lakes. But what defines her most isn’t status—it’s audacity.

Founder of Trestle Thirty-One, Cadamatre rejects rigid notions of regional typicity. “Why would we put ourselves in a box?” Her wines are textural, age-worthy, and built to provoke. “I want my wines to illicit an emotional response and I'm ok if that is either positive or negative. I never want the wines to just be ok. They should stand out in your mind regardless of if you liked them or not.”

Her technical expertise runs deep—Cornell-trained, with experience in Napa and the Finger Lakes—but her creativity is what sets her apart. Her debut Riesling bucked local conventions and drew intrigue, but it also sparked dialogue. “That was the point,” she says. “We’re still figuring out who we are as a region. That exploration is exciting.”

Cadamatre is also blunt about climate risk. “We may lose Riesling in our lifetime if warming trends continue,” she warns. Her solution? Adaptability and intention. “We have to be more than one grape. We have to be ready.”

Legacy, for her, is about impact. “I like to focus on the ultimate quality goal of making great wines so hopefully there are a majority of other wineries who want to walk down that road with me. . . Wines are a winemaker’s immortality in a bottle. I want to make sure I'm making wines that will outlive me.”

Infinite Possibilities: Giorgia Popermhem on Wine, Community, and Bottleland

Giorgia Popermhem’s journey into wine has been anything but traditional. Raised in Brooklyn’s restaurant scene and shaped by seven years in Italy studying communication design, she knew early on that a 9-to-5 office job wasn’t for her. Instead, she found her calling in the tactile, dynamic world of wine.

Giorgia’s first harvest was at Red Newt in 2021. She then joined Six Eighty Cellars, where cellar work perfectly matched her ADHD-driven need for variety and problem-solving. There, she fell in love with non-traditional winemaking tools like clay amphorae and concrete eggs. “These vessels showed me there are infinite possibilities in winemaking,” she says. “Ancient techniques can be refreshed in exciting ways.”

Now, Giorgia is focusing on her newest venture: Bottleland, a boutique wine and spirits shop that newly opened in Geneva in May 2025. Co-founded with her mother, Bottleland features a curated selection of sustainable wines from women, BIPOC, and LGBTQ+ producers. “Wine should be joyful and accessible,” Giorgia explains. “There’s only so much Riesling a gal can drink, so we want to offer variety and stories that resonate.”

Her love for the Finger Lakes shines through in her appreciation for Cabernet Franc’s bright, herbaceous style and Riesling’s remarkable diversity. She also champions sustainability through native grapes and hybrids, which support more environmentally responsible farming without sacrificing elegance.